How To Apply Art Graphics To An Arcade Video Game Cabinet

 

Hi!  We have been applying replacement new art graphics to arcade video game cabinets for many years.  The results of our work prove that we have developed some pretty good techniques.  And, the materials we use are the best that we can find.

Nevertheless, from time to time something goes badly wrong.  The job is messed up, the art is ruined, and we have to start all over.  Consequently, the job is then overdue, we lose money, and the customer becomes steadily more and more anxious.

 

I mention all this for two reasons.  First, if you are an anxious customer of ours, have patience.  Custom work takes time.  But, the results are always worth the extra wait.

Second, if you are planning to use my following instructions for your own project, understand that things can still go wrong.  Even to the point that you may have to buy more art and start all over.  If you are new to all this, maybe you should practice first with art materials that don't matter.

Practice will definitely make anyone better.  But, sometimes there are unforseen obstacles - like heat, humidity, or a bad run of materials - that will ruin your project.  Further, even with all our experience, we are constantly improving our techniques.   And likely, so will you.

 

So, use the following instructions, but do so at your own risk.  If you need help, send me an email:  [email protected]

 

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When reading our following procedures, please note these important differences between the way we do things and everyone else:

 

1.  It takes longer and is much more difficult, but we also apply adhesive to the cabinet, not just the art alone. 

Result - a superior, permanent bond between the art and the cabinet.

 

2.  We apply at least 4 total coats of the very best quality finishes (primer, paint, and sealant) to the cabinet, and sometimes as many as 7 total coats.  We do this to every cabinet, whether there are graphics or not.

Result - every one of our custom multicades has a beautiful, durable, extra long lasting cabinet finish.

 

Our goal is simple - with every custom multicade, create a fine (fun) piece of furniture for your home.

 

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How To Apply Art Graphics To An Arcade Video Game Cabinet:

 

1.  There are different materials and techniques for different cabinets.  So, for our purposes, we will use application of Galaga side art as our example.

Galaga side art is a project that encompasses all the basics, is fairly demanding, yet not too complex.

This is a photo of one of our fully restored Galaga multicades.  Even though the job is fairly recent and looks great, we have improved our techniques considerably even since this photo was taken.

 

 

 2.  Some general warnings:

• When power sanding - wear a mask and googles, and do not wear rings, bracelets, etc.
• When using Bondo - wear a mask and nitrile gloves, and work in a ventilated place.
• When spraying adhesive - wear a mask, and work in a ventilated place.
• When cleaning with naptha - wear a mask, work in a ventilated place, and stay away from flame.
• When painting - wear a mask, and observe any product warnings.

 

 

3.  Begin by sanding the cabinet sides and front to bare wood using an orbital power sander and #60 grit sandpaper.

This is a photo of a cabinet in process of being sanded.  Depending on the condition of the surface, it may not be necessary to sand completely to bare wood.

 

 

 

 

 

4.  Fill cracks, blemishes, and holes with Bondo.  Use only Bondo.  Caulk and wood putty will not last.  Sand the Bondo when cured.

For shallow cracks and blemishes, drill holes into them.  Thus, the Bondo will have a larger surface area with which to bond.

We buy the large can of Bondo.  $23 at Home Depot.

 

 

5.  Proceed to the next step when the cabinet surface is smooth and of uniform texture.  You can make this judgment only by both running your hand over the entire surface and by visual inspection. 

When the surface both feels and looks smooth, you are ready to proceed. 

 

6.  All sandpapers are not created equal.  We have tried many brands, and found Klingspor to be the best cutting, longest lasting of any.  We buy 100 sheet boxes of #60, #120, and #220 grits.

Grit #60 is used for the initial stage of old paint removal.  Grit #120 is used in the secondary stage for smoothing new coats of primer and paint.  And, grit #220 is used in the final stage for preping an area for new graphics application.

 

 

7.  Apply one or two coats of primer with a foam roller.  We use Glidden Gripper Grey primer, available at Home Depot for $25 a gallon.  Let cure 24 to 48 hours.

In this photo, you can see a can of the primer, and what it looks like on the cabinet.  By the way, we do not apply art to the primer coat any longer.

This brand of primer is the best for our purposes, and it is the most expensive.  When the primer is cured, lightly sand any rough and any high spots with #120 grit sandpaper.

 



8.  Apply two or three coats of black latex paint with a foam roller.  We use semi-gloss, exterior Sparkling Black latex paint from Ace Hardware. 

At $29 a gallon, it is expensive. But, it produces a durable, unique looking, textured leather-like finish.  Let cure 24 to 48 hours.

 

 

 

9.  We buy a lot of foam rollers.  This handy contractor's pack of 6 is $9 at Home Depot.  We have found the 1/4" nap best for achieving the look we want.

 

10  In the area where the art will be applied, lightly sand the cured paint with #220 grit sandpaper.



11.  Use a tack cloth to remove all dust particles from the art area.  The objective is to have the art area as smooth and clean as possible.

Tack cloths are available by the bag at any paint store.



12.  Use chalk to lightly mark the correct position of the art.  The challenge is not only that the art be positioned correctly in relationship to the cabinet side, but also that it be parallel with the rear edge of the cabinet, and that it be positioned the same on both sides of the cabinet.

In addition to the chalk, you will also need a ruler and a plumbline.  Take your time and measure carefully, because positioning two pieces of art identically is a very difficult task.

 

13.  Use a spray mist adhesive to apply a thin, thorough coat of adhesive to the area where the art is to be applied.  Use only a mist type adhesive. 

Stand back at least 2' from the cabinet to allow any large globs of mist to fall to the floor.  Use a spray can handle to prevent your finger from creating any globs of adhesive. 

Clear the spray nozzel of any dried adhesive before each use.

Discard the spray can when about 90% of the contents have been used.  It seems that the last 10% is a lesser quality of fine mist, perhaps due to the depleted propellant pressure inside the can.

If the coating of adhesive is not a thin, fine, smooth layer, then remove it all with naptha, and start over.  Be alert that the first 5% of adhesive from a new can is prone to stream rather than mist.  Perhaps the propellant pressure is too high.  If streaming occurs, remove the adhesive with naptha, and start over.

Allow the adhesive to cure about 20 minutes.  It is ready when tacky, not wet, to the touch.  Remove or flatten any adhesive globs with a toothpick.

The photo shows the brand of adhesive that we use.  It is available at Ace Hardware.

In case you are wondering.  Yes, cabinet art graphics come with an adhesive backing.  So, it may seem redundant or unnecessary to also apply adhesive to the cabinet.  But, if you are seeking a permanent bond (and we are), then both surfaces - the cabinet and the art - must have an adhesive coating.

 

14.  Apply the art very carefully and very slowly, as there is little adjustability once the two adhesive surfaces meet.  Use three people - one person at each side holding the art in alignment, away from the cabinet, and peeling the backing; and, one person in the middle applying the art with a squeegee.

 

15.  There should not be any tension on the art while it is being applied, only the force of gravity.  The two people holding the art should not be pulling on the art or its backing whenever squeegee strokes are in process.

If there is opposing tension on the art, it will begin to wrinkle as it is applied to the cabinet.  If wrinkling begins, stop.  It is usually possible to gently remove the art to a point before the wrinkling, and begin applying the art again. 

 

16.  Start at the top edge of the art and work downward a few inches at a time.  Use short strokes with the squeegee.  Work from the middle of the art to the outside edges.

We use an 8" stainless steel heavy duty squeegee, like the one in the photo, available at Ace Hardware.

 

17.  After the art is applied, use a soft terry cloth lightly sprayed or sprinkled with naptha to remove any adhesive overspray from the cabinet.  Do not allow any naptha to seep around the edges of the art.

 

18.  If any air or gas bubbles appear under the art, puncture them with the tip of a #11 Exacto blade.  Then, smooth and flatten the art surface with the top side of your thumb nail.  Be careful not to scratch the art.

 

19.  Make certain that the art and cabinet are clean of any particles.  Then, apply one or two coats of clear gloss sealant over the art and entire cabinet to preserve and protect the art and cabinet finish.

This is a photo of the product that we use.  It is available at Rockler for $45 a gallon.  Expensive, but well worth the money.  Use a foam roller to apply.

 

 

Good Luck!

 

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